The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of
Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
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Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making
Author: William Hamilton Gibson
Release Date: January 2, 2007 [EBook #17093]
[This file was first posted on November 18, 2005]
Language: English
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*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS AND ***
Produced by Robert J. Hall
[Illustration]
CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS
AND THE
TRICKS OF TRAPPING
AND
TRAP MAKING
CONTAINING
COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND
BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS
ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S
ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE
PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND
FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR
THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.
BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON
AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"
_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_
[Page 1]
TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS
MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,
KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS
IN THE
BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH,
THIS BOOK IS
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY
THE AUTHOR.
[Page 3]
[Illustration]
PREFACE
[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports
and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of
our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of
this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches,
always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interest
among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country.
It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'
Books" published in this country. There are a few English works
of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but
are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of
American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially
English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_
topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country.
In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume
knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and
those examples which are given, represent only the most common
and universal varieties already known to the general public.
[Page 4]
With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm
upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected
corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his
own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a
volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want
in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.
Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood
as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like
all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of
Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes
simple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere
_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use
after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their
plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless
cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it
under any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping is
a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it
to all our boy-readers.
It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_
volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap
kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily
construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the
utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description.
With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace
nearly every known example of the various devices used for the
capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such
as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure,
and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American
Trapper.
Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall,
as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary
qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever
possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the
[Page 5]
title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions
for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other
hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild
animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our
book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary
information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing
the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject
ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work,
in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the
hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares
which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for
want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions
will appear in the present work for the first time in book form,
and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost
say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never
yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.
As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is
one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and
that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source
of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in
those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating
effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the
same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment,
the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young
trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no
other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting
of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of
the different game--here becomes a matter of great importance;
and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords
a continual source of pleasure and profit.
Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used
by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that
the author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing
[Page 6]
action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only
ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be
incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces
the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the
subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,--containing full
directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes;
hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the
curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of
all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a
professional trapper.
In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure
clearness in general directions, and every point which would be
likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate
illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of
boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every
instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive
and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed
throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness,
may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every
boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of
THE AUTHOR.
[Illustration]
[Page iii]
[Illustration: CONTENTS]
BOOK I.
TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN
TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution
required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different
Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is
adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for
Bow.--A Second Example of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE
DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by
the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down
Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR
TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait
for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of
defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful
agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of
the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it
is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of
Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its
Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to
which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its
Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.
[Page iv]
BOOK II.
SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL
SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP
NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the
Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk
captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture
of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection
of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE
POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar
Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which
it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the
Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of
Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX
SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The
Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.--THE OLD-FASHIONED
SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE
FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE.
BOOK III.
TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method
of Setting.--Defects of the old style.--THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its
Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE
CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The
"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in
the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE
BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE
WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions
for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as
Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among
Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic
as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird
Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites
of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.--Different Modes
of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner
of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of
Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable
Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in
Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of
Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in
Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX
BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX
TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of
Bearings.--THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed
Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured
by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake
Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the
Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait
for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture
of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when
Captured in the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful
Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME
Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime
of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird
Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with
Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A
Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its
Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the
Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the
Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed
by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water.
[Page v]
BOOK IV.
MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it
is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE
FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite
Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's
Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals
for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of
Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.--Remarkable
Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait
for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox
Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement
of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the
Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR
TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode
of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the
Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed
Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A
FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various
Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture.
BOOK V.
HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat
as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and
Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other
Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various
other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints
on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD
FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its
Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The
principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE
JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete
Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY
TRAP.
BOOK VI.
STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in
the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES
OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat
Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver
Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--Small Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING
THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its
Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.--Its
Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use
in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.--Objections against
Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE
GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE
ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications
for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source
of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious
[Page vi]
Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the
Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without
Bait.--Run-ways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How
Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel
Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense
of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value
in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel
Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary
Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the
Art of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum
Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL
OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic
Animals.--Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How
Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL
OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal
Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUND
MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of
Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific
Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The
Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great
Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The
Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various
Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.--Its consummate Craft.--Instances
of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation
of the Trap.--Adverse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap
with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in
Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to
Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various
Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall
as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions
for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce
Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and
Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The
Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the
Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation
of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and
Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"
as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching
the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific Classification.--Its Life
and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its
Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun
Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal
Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel
Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.--How
to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA
LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its
Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as
a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The
Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitch-up.--Young of the Lynx.--Value
of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions
for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its
Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its
Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal
Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild
Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The
Twitch-up.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other
Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions
for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The
Various American Species.--The Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and
Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the
Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear
Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for
Pigs.--Honey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the
Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps
for the Bear.--The Dead
[Page vii]
Fall.--Pit-fall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The
Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the
Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey
as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions
for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning
and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon
Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Varied
Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon"
as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and
Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for
Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting
the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for
the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the
Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of
the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable
Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its
Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of
"Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How
to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE
BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The
Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable
Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill
shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable
Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How
the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of
the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage
to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How
to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark
Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various
Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of
the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the
Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSK-RAT.--General Description
of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
Food.--The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet.--Description
of the Hut.--Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat.--Its Home.--How the
Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being
Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the Musk-Rat.--Construction
of the Spear.--How to Trap the Musk-Rat.--Use of the Sliding
Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent
Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat.--The
Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning
the Musk-Rat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description
of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion
is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for
Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track
or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness
when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The
Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the
Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The
Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary
Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the
Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits
of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it
may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How
to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Baits.--The
Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized
in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the
Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of
the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode
of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various
Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--The
Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning
the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and
Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring
Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its
Capture.--The Skin.--How
[Page viii]
Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of
the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms"
of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect
on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are
often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits
of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to
Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different
Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its
Construction.--The Twitch-up.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the
Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of
Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and
Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and
voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food
of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the
Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead
Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young
of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE
OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--Its
Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of
the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its
Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum
is Hunted.--How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent
Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.--Wide-spread
Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of
Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the
Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the
Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE
WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its
Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The
Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The
Spring Pole.--The Twitch-up.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The
Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning
the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek
Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--How to Trap the Animal.--How
the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its
Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The
Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat
of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the
Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its
Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their
Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The
Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American
Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The
Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps
Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty
of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species
of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of
the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting
the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead
Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the
Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute
Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural
Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the
Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt
is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar
Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head
Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox
Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons
for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description
of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted
on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of
Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the
Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the
Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as
Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its
Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo
[Page ix]
flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description
of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted
and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the
Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How
the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The
Dead-fall.--Pit-fall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING
AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their
relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on
fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of
Poison.--Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the
Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared.
BOOK VII.
CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection
of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of
transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The
Adirondacks and Alleghanies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection
of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark
Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on
the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement of
Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive
route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds of Personal
Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the
Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity
of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps
considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for
an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of
Trap.--Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for
a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next
to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns
and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jack-knife.--The
Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot
guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil for Fire
Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The
Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The
Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped
Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot
Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The
"Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or
"Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store
Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How
made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip
for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy
and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined
Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers'
Culinary Outfit.--Indian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of
Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a
luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe
for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" à la "Chinee."--A Flat
Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried
Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe
Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious
manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of
delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages
of the ordinary method of cooking.--Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked
deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized
Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat
broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode
[Page x]
of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries"
considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle
Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe
for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct
to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch
wood" or "Punk Tinder," valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires
without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches,
Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best
in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying
Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes
as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit
and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose
of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and
Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned
Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted
bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for
Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve
the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose
and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions
from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--"Small game,"
Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The
Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and
Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The
Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's
Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of
Duck.--Mallard.--Muscovy.--Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal,
&c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon
Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by
the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good
Spearsman.--Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as
Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout
fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing
through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish
Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and
used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of
a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The
Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of
constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of
the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions
for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages
of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly
Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent
Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable
recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired
Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed
Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce
and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The
Rubber Blanket.
BOOK VIII.
THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT
OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to the scent
of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow
Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.--Its effect on the
Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and
severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty
propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke
versus Insect Bites.--"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible
voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective
Antidote.--Depraved
[Page xi]
appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse
of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and
Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The
Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.--Result of the bite of the insect.--The
Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment
for the Hat.--Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment
for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity
to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for
its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the
boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness
of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to stop leaks.--THE
INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His
remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description
of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a
Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material
used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch
Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT
HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the
Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing
purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the
ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity
for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow
Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated
Net-work.--Two methods of attaching the Net-work.--How the Snow
Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the
Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to
make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING
SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning
Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent
preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board
Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made
and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To
Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning
Mixture.--Recipe.--Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and
Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK
AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various
Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the
Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON,
AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple
Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the
Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some
bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs
a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur
Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--Their use restricted to
Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid
in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of
the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian
Traders.--Establishment of the North West Company.--Competition and
War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's
Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the
enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes
built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat
Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the
annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification
of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table
of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September
Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List
of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET
VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand
governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur
Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal
of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of
Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of
American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according
to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver
Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its
[Page xii]
use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon
Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their
various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its
hair for Artists pencils.--Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually
exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American
poorer classes.--Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit
Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for
their Fur.--The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of
Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur
of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes
for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins.
[Illustration]
[Page xiii]
[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS.]
FULL PAGES.
1. Caught at last.
2. Traps for Large Game.
3. Snares or Noose Traps.
4. Traps for Feathered Game.
5. Miscellaneous Traps.
6. Household Traps.
7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping.
8. Almost Persuaded.--to face.
9. The Campaign.
10. Trapper's Miscellany.
[Page xiv]
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
11. "Preface".
12. Initial to Preface.
13. End piece to Preface.
14. "Contents".
15. "Illustrations".
16. Initial to Book I
17. Dead fall for large Animals.
18. Explanatory drawing of pieces.
19. The Gun Trap.
20. The Bow Trap
21. " " " arrangement of parts.
22. " " " Section.
23. Foot String Bow Trap.
24. The Down fall.
25. The Bear Trap.
26. End piece to Book I.
27. Initial to Book II.
28. Quail Nooses.
29. Hedge Nooses.
30. The Triangle Snare.
31. The Twitch-up.
32. Method of Setting.
33. " " " No. 2.
34. " " " No. 3.
35. " " " No. 4.
36. " " " No. 5.
37. The Poacher's Snare.
38. The Portable Snare.
39. The "Simplest" Snare.
40. Modification No. 2.
41. " " 3.
42. The Quail Snare.
43. The Box Snare.
44. The Double Box Snare.
45. The Old fashioned Springle.
46. The Improved Springle.
47. The Figure Four Ground Snare.
48. The Platform Snare.
49. End piece.
50. Initial to Book III.
51. The Brick Trap.
52. Method of Setting.
53. The Coop Trap.
54. The Bat fowling Net.
55. The Clap Net.
56. The Bird Whistle.
57. The Trap Cage.
58. Diagrams of Cage.
59. The Spring Net Trap.
[Page xv]
60. Section of Spring Net Trap.
61. A Simpler Net Trap.
62. The Upright Net Trap.
63. Second Method "
64. The Box Owl Trap.
65. The Box Bird Trap.
66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap.
67. The Hawk Trap.
68. The Wild Duck Net.
69. The Hook Trap.
70. The Fool's Cap Trap.
71. The Limed Twig.
72. Humming-bird Trap.
73. Initial to Book IV.
74. The Common Box Trap.
75. Two Modes of Setting.
76. Box Trap.
77. The Figure Four Trap.
78. Parts of "
79. The "Double Ender".
80. The Self-Setting Trap.
81. The Dead fall.
82. Method No. 2.
83. The Garotte.
84. Arrangement of "Setting".
85. The Bow Garotte Trap.
86. A Fish Trap.
87. End Piece "Maternal advice".
88. Initial to Book V.
89. The Barrel Trap.
90. The Box Dead Trap.
91. The Board Flap.
92. The Box Pit-fall.
93. Diagram of "
94. Cage Trap.
95. Initial to Book VI.
96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap.
97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap.
98. " " No. 2, or Mink Trap.
99. " " No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap.
100. " " No. 3, or Otter Trap.
101. " " No. 4, or Beaver Trap.
102. "The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap.
103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap.
104. Steel Trap set in pen.
105. The Spring Pole.
106. The Sliding pole.
107. The Grappling Iron.
108. The Wolf.
109. The Puma.
110. The Canada Lynx.
[Page xvi]
111. The Wild Cat.
112. The Bear.
113. The Raccoon.
114. The Badger.
115. The Beaver.
116. The Otter.
117. The Mink.
118. The Marten.
119. The Skunk.
120. The Wolverine.
121. The Opossum.
122. The Squirrel.
123. The Moose.
124. Initial to Book VII.
125. Portable Drinking Cup.
126. The Home Shanty.
127. The Shelter tent.
128. The Trapper's Bed.
129. End Piece.
130. Initial to Book VIII.
131. Head Net.
132. Portable Hat-brim.
133. Hat-brim with netting attachment.
134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe.
135. The Birch-Bark Canoe.
136. A Light Home-made Boat.
137. Diagram view of Boat----.
138. The Snow Shoe.
139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge.
140. The Board Stretcher.
141. The Wedge Stretcher.
142. The Bow Stretcher.
143. "The End".
[Illustration]
[Page 15]
[Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME]
[Page 17]
BOOK I.
TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurking
dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large
and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects
of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar,
Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.
Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively
in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless
often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known
to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases
of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.
[Illustration]
THE DEAD-FALL.
There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described
in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all
bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed
to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals,
and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of
the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite
haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes.
These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about
three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to
reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this
being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about
two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top
should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the
[Page 18]
bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches
in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the
opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each
side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another
log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty
feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness,
we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In
order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate
drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set (_a_).
An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having
its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into
the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should
be three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similar
dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch
being reversed, _i. e._, having its flat side _uppermost_. This
post should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on the
right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_),
is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted
outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the
front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet
[Page 19]
in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends.
At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a
stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown
at (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, each
about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces,
and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakes
of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), and
holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The second
pole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the
crotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projecting
end of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving.
The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of the
pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium.
[Illustration]
The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short
stick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and the
upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch
pole (_d_).
The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkable
fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the
enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the
pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers
against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which
the machine is ready for its deadly work.
A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey
is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for
him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing
beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board
on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The
upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing
the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side
pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight
over the back of hapless Bruin.
There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several
of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the
one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are
[Page 20]
equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size.
In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards,
and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost
the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall
often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard
often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as
seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most
sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized
at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our
northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the
Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the
gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly
on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded
moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by
his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his
destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.
THE GUN TRAP.
After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied
his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the
remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet
is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone
feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any
carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is
sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to
decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain
place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their
most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed,
and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon
may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily
loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to
some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground,
the barrel being similarly supported.
The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should
be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance
passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _but
not capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted
the very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle
[Page 21]
is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing.
It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two
in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the
guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its
other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown
in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its
length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to
the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on
one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to
the tip of the first slick.
[Illustration]
Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook
in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the
bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting
the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order
to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.
The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting
the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their
perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will
draw the short stick forward. This immediately
[Page 22]
acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials,
the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily,
and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will
suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly,
the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches,
extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure
an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be
placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left
to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should
be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by
other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal
to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be
arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait.
Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where
two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an
absolute certainty.
By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
the _breast_ of the animal.
The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
in power by a larger number of guns.
There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a
[Page 23]
dreaded marauder to his doom.
The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.
THE BOW TRAP.
This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
as the _tiger trap_.
[Illustration]
It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in
[Page 24]
diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with
thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity
should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted
in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is
plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of
stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is
not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist
of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of
the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples
may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through
holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend
of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end
of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other
end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the
ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up
the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust
the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the
string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board,
keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working
order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very
simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On
the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
large end being trimmed so
[Page 25]
as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the
notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very
lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place
at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should
consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals,
any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used.
In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole
and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent
its removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The prop
which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted
a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded
by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of
the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches
laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a
double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed,
thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without
this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the
arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other
hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim.
Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength
of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is
almost surely fatal.
Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
stick and the inside of the bow, the
[Page 26]
remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
follows the course of the poison through his veins.
[Illustration]
The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
without the venom.
THE DOWN-FALL.
This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
[Page 27]
it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.
[Illustration]
The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.
The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and
a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into
the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account
of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose
of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and
filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first
requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This
should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length.
Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded,
allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should
[Page 28]
then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope,
about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from
the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat
side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
is now ready.
Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch
should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the
notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across
the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The
trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make
too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side
is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the
peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down
comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its
victim.
For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly.
When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure
being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure
[Page 29]
from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from
either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired.
Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object
on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of
the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail
or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an
upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should
point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and
its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus
be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the
notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from
the nail.
This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
on account of its being more sensitive.
Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
death-dealing qualities
THE BEAR TRAP.
This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
before the captive is brought under control.
Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear,
for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two
and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built
in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described
in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set
up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be
cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should
likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end,
so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one
side, and into the second pair of uprights
[Page 30]
on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
captive.
[Illustration]
There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
[Page 31]
to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used
also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented
with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into
almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above
he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of
honey is in view.
For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.
This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the
puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls,
and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This
trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger,
and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the
same devices.
THE PIT-FALL.
The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
of these countries are so terribly infested with
[Page 32]
the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.
Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet
in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening
should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as
to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.
They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_.
Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
[Page 33]
crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
and is lodged in the depths of the pit.
The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
much more easily constructed. The following is an example:--
THE LOG COOP TRAP.
This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of
logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on
page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched
at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two
of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in
the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"
fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners
may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united
afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to
bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and
firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways
of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67
works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as
in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter
case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the
back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this
purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed
beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the
upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb
of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait
stick by a spindle, as described
[Page 34]
for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the
tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such
an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made
so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior
will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_
mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on
page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass
easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the
coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall
be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The
introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent
the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The
bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with
this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the
pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.
A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet,
at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop
may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap
for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often
productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should
consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds
of American game are given under their respective heads in another
part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.
There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four
miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually
closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which,
by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing
[Page 35]
walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate
presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell
into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
are sometimes appalling.
THE NET TRAP.
The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the
coop trap, page (67).
The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is
familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is
unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with
it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has
secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans
of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed
of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so
placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait,
which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the
cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves,
and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky
substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles
on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with
the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate
himself.
In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy
[Page 36]
prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.
Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
in the section "Art of Trapping."
[Illustration]
[Page 37]
[Illustration: SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS]
[Page 39]
BOOK II.
SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS.
[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the
head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are
generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;
and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which
secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of
this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional
Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be
recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers,
who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the
low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its
misguided victim.
Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
and out of the commonest material.
Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools
required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass
"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be
described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full
of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending
upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are
complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares,
which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.
Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary
QUAIL SNARE,
which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
[Page 40]
may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.
[Illustration]
HOOP NOOSES.
This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
is complete.
This is a very old and approved method.
In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
[Page 41]
another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to
the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the
bait adjusted as there seen.
We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
desire to use them instead.
Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.
A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a
complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when
once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will
be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted,
the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small
loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened
to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used
in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess
considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively
used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips
easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops,
which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We
recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future,
although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.
[Illustration]
There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
are almost sure to become entangled
[Page 42]
sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their
way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is
only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run
about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.
It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily
taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short
section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's
experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although
never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the
hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to
run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge
so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with
two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose,
but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground
with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.
[Illustration]
There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle
snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind
of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.
It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a
triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size,
depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.
A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.
This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling
low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom
of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a
berry, insect, or piece of
[Page 43]
meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
We recommend it with great confidence.
For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.
The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
and for this reason are to be commended.
THE "TWITCH-UP."
Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys,
and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name,
"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our
illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many
varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided
into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which
[Page 44]
the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly
called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the
"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account
of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by
the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey
into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.
Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that,
too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days,
was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he
found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any
other kinds of traps he employed.
[Illustration]
They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very
well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
the little inclosure shown
[Page 45]
in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.
We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
shows the method of setting the trap.
[Illustration]
After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
fill the arch, the trap will be set.
[Page 46]
In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily
pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the
air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
same cause.
It is not really necessary for success that the force of the sapling
should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
being less painful and more rapid in its effects.
If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
will occasionally be entrapped.
The next figure represents another method of constructing this
trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.
[Illustration: Method No. 2]
In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
[Page 47]
notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_),
so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.
[Illustration: Method No. 3]
A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
be found on trial to work admirably.
[Illustration: Method No. 4]
One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms
the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties
it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a
circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose.
It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be
firmly inserted in the ground at
[Page 48]
the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight
twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the
draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is
another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point
of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait
stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
more easily thrown from its balance.
[Illustration: Method No. 5]
THE POACHER'S' SNARE.
Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its
operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of
England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
heavily.
The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.
If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary.
The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one
end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch
[Page 49]
from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than
the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being
nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied
with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the
blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should
be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch
piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in
width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of
the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily
understood by a look at our illustration.
[Illustration]
A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer,
and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
may be set.
Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
always letting the baited end project toward the
[Page 50]
opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
intruder who tries to steal its property.
Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
more valuable.
THE PORTABLE SNARE.
This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place
where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
by that name in countries where it is most used.
It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
[Page 51]
by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on
which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two
inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that
in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length,
and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.
[Illustration]
To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
Tie a strong piece of twine around one
[Page 52]
end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.
For portability, however, the following has no equal.
THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.
This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at
our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up
it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
[Page 53]
ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the draw-string, and passed
through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place
by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be
about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely
enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be
fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for
portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above.
We give also a few other applications of the same principle.
[Illustration: Method No. 1]
In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
noose arranged at the opening.
[Illustration: Method No. 2]
Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
a chance of securing two birds at the same time.
THE QUAIL SNARE.
That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
[Page 54]
to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
foregoing.
[Illustration: Method No. 3]
Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
trap set as already directed.
[Illustration]
The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;
but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates
[Page 55]
in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
if desired.
THE BOX SNARE.
This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
desire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or
feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
inches from the back edge.
[Illustration]
This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object
of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely
[Page 56]
through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece
should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in
the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should
be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described,
and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being
at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about
two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.
We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.
The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
game.
THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.
This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it
[Page 57]
is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
efficient.
[Illustration]
It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be
easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait
stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough
to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next
procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one
[Page 58]
end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large
double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and
a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity.
Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied
over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness,
the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass
through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the
inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the
top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only
very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
variety, and there is none more effective.
The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.
* * * * *
GROUND SNARES.
THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.
[Illustration]
This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
give an illustration of it as it appears when
[Page 59]
set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing
the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end
to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is
called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the
upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch
should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be
procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about
four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long,
should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose
end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at
(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should
be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at
about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair,
or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened
to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch
thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place
selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible
twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at
both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch
(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its
broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly
under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end
of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should
be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The
[Page 60]
pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the
spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with
the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath
the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the
notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part
of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our
drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as
otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the
bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the
spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle
on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and
hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the
spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released,
the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the
legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling
creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter
itself into a speedy death.
THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.
[Illustration]
The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
[Page 61]
in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order
to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal
of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set
the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from
which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;
but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus
torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend
in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as
successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death,
either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard
among the most humane traps on record.
THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.
[Illustration]
For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the
_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will
release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait.
THE PLATFORM SNARE.
[Illustration]
This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
[Page 62]
switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
be sure that it works sensitively.
[Page 63]
[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]
[Page 65]
BOOK III.
TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net
and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of
THE SIEVE TRAP.
This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not
complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string
can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has
patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to
be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course
depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not
shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a
very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting
is unrewarded.
The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where
[Page 66]
the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers
the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue
the self-acting trap is better.
THE BRICK TRAP.
This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.
Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly
arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece
cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows
the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies
[Page 67]
to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by
his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting
fall the sustained brick.
[Illustration]
It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if
desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick,
and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further
apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.
[Illustration]
THE COOP TRAP.
This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
[Page 68]
will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
forenoon.
[Illustration]
In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving
a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
the two selected sticks across the ends of the
[Page 69]
uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut
three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
[Page 70]
short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the
like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
they had been brought up to it.
The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the
coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
in comparison.
THE BAT FOWLING NET.
With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.
[Page 71]
[Illustration]
Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag,
about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is
used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark
night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a
favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they
are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as
the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
sounds.
Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the
net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat
the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the
bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then
moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against
the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and
when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken
in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual
use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The
dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often
so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the
lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken
with the hand.
[Page 72]
THE CLAP NET.
In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the use
of this little whistle, is something surprising.
[Illustration]
No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush
or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive
the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves.
Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn
to use the whistle to good advantage.
The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that
several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
if desired:--
[Page 73]
Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
be securely whipped to each end of the netting.
Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of
which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches
in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.
The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at
our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant
from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_
edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the
net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should
be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the
nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net
perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet
in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw
eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is
attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose.
To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string
should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop,
the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas
[Page 74]
when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a
trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the
trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.
Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.
The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
which their capture is easily effected.
THE BIRD WHISTLE.
This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.
[Illustration]
[Page 75]
To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
called, the "menagerie whistle."
THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.
In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
the net.
When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_,
and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game.
[Page 76]
The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull,
hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are
prisoners.
Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.
THE TRAP CAGE.
[Illustration]
Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful.
The cage is arranged in two compartments,
[Page 77]
one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds.
The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much
patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise
that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may
help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height
should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top
and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights.
These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in
length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight
inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a
small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square,
thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of
the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces,
the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes,
as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a
brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths
of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights
may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered
each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more
of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length,
and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should
now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a
picture-frame. They should then be attached to
[Page 78]
the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of
the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with
holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
up and down in the direction of the wires.
[Illustration]
The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
secured by a brad at each end.
The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should
be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the
top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set
in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured
about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen
in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces,
and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron,
or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be
pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides,
in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the
narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for
the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the
lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout.
This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty
yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used.
It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily.
Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board
through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward,
through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and
across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From
this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and
again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it
upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the
cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
[Page 79]
illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire
from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an
additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched
for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced
should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of
doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square
in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece
of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which
are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps
the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_),
together with its mode of attachment.
It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
and work easily.
The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as
seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower
piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
[Page 80]
_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven
between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door,
while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient
to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a
catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired.
The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists
of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at
each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen
in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should
now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the
central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a
berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle
or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced,
the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained
it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will
be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious
than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He
soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it
asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive.
The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments
beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling
two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not
an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are
caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed
on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture
of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird,
and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working
on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the
owl, will be noticed hereafter.
THE SPRING NET TRAP.
Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
picture, our explanation will be easily understood.
The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
[Page 81]
height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
(_b_).
[Illustration]
The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
wire.
For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
between the boxes, letting each end rest
[Page 82]
over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should
allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other,
and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should
prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to
another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
complicated one.
[Illustration]
The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
space for the bird.
But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section
drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the
groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on
both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop
quickly from one side to the other.
It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
[Page 83]
consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_
side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of
the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant
is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may
have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap,
and will well repay the trouble of making it.
A SIMPLER NET TRAP.
[Illustration]
Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it
is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties
of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire,
to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
[Page 84]
the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and
half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of
the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the
surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached
by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine,
five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;
on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece,
and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape
shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should
be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle,
and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered
on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood
either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main
board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into
the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through
it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming
a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower
tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at
(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with
two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In
our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber
elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by
way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may
be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various
kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered
hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be
about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters
of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to
be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus
tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in
cold water.
One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin
[Page 85]
catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire
and hold it in its place.
THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.
Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured
to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.
An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch
and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length
being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked
on to the upper edge of the board.
The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It
may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or
even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which
is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches
in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches
square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of
the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving.
The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the
leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order
that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it.
The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear.
When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
[Page 86]
trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
springs easily.
[Illustration]
When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the
wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured
without harm.
[Illustration: Method 2.]
Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
It should be about three or four inches square,
[Page 87]
and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge
of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its
end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be
too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer
every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should
be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half
an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have
one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted
in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes
should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at
about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert
the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the
platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire
staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine
the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath
the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of
the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly
parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place,
and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a
little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing
it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug
should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration
shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to
pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown
[Page 88]
in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
will be found very effective.
THE BOX OWL TRAP.
The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
been successfully used for that purpose.
The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_
traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or
more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed
to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in
the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by
means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over
the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be
raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where
the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be
marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough
for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should
now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the
bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as
seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with
a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front
of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on
the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening
the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then
hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)
the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a
very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop
and let the cover down with swiftness.
To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
for this purpose. One end should be bent
[Page 89]
down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.
[Illustration]
This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of
the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
through the body, just behind the head.
There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before
long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the
[Page 90]
top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
upon.
We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
the owl by its chirping.
The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.
This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.
Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
to be clipped.
THE BOX BIRD TRAP.
Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
appears when set.
[Illustration]
The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
[Page 91]
the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be
supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order
comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration,
and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined
together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached
and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the
cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with
the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing.
THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.
This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
of small birds.
The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.
Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the
cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be
drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against
the box.
The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
in construction from any other described in this book.
It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
[Page 92]
inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
box.
It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
exact centre of the width of the back.
[Illustration]
Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown
in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to
receive it, as also in the back of the box for the other piece.
If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold
the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is
[Page 93]
thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will
throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap.
The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found
in the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which must
be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves
together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a
string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight
on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If
desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover,
extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head
of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward
relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjusted
to the lower edge of the box to insure capture.
THE HAWK TRAP.
[Illustration]
Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of
a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of
[Page 94]
its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted
his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely
end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great
success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the
poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration,
consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with
stiff perpendicular pointed wires.
This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board
covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to
the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist.
Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our
illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the
same device.
THE WILD DUCK NET.
Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use
for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake
bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid.
The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly
all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as
well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of
the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost
superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered
by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending
in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending
[Page 95]
therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these converging
nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large
hoop; and the distance between these latter should be about five
feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating
in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The
trap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are
generally used, being enclosed in the pound.
[Illustration]
When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should
be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.
It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within
the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but
such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex
net, has been known to secure a number of the game.
THE HOOK TRAP
[Illustration]
Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude
on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted
to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use,
we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully
conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is
generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first
stretched across the sand and secured
[Page 96]
to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals,
each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of
the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks
are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the
sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the
success of the device is equal to its cruelty.
THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.
Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more
novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms
the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means
easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as
coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in
their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the
com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest
and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it is
hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by the
strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his
head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and
which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic
performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told.
The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or
four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the
ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into
it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_,
[Page 97]
a substance of which we shall speak hereafter.
[Illustration]
The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep
in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the
feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of
all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off.
The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to
be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the
snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in
the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on
the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting
morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard
of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully
employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity
of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment
upon for themselves.
BIRD LIME.
This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which
is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky
preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish.
It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between
the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What
its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.
[Illustration]
This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may
be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of
[Page 98]
our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required,
an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the
"slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early
summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and
boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft
and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled
down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and
beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When
done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and
kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened
over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water.
When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or
twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in
the locality selected for the capture of the birds.
An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil,
by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish
either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also
answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set
in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.
If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they
may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a
well known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universal
enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens,
a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to
limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air
with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy
owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely
pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.
Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl
with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree,
he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring
branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by
_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soon
at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling
twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter
the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held.
In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured.
[Page 99]
THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have
been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds.
The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains
of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by
spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or
trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost
certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once
fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that
this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers.
The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact
that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other
kinds.
We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird
might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most
fragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothing
else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be
caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers
where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in
ensnaring their tiny forms.
The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion
from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction
of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground.
If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as
it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same,
as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly.
[Illustration]
[Page 101]
[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS]
[Page 103]
BOOK IV.
MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
THE COMMON BOX TRAP.
[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps
which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
known inventions.
There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to
be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak
or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness.
The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board
be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the
end piece of lid 7 in. square.
The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
into its place.
To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
[Page 104]
small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
[Illustration]
The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
trap.
In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened
to the end of the lid.
In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the
brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle,
and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole.
[Page 105]
Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several
inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and
catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another
slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
[Illustration]
When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in
different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
be fastened upon it to insure that result.
This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
There is still another well known form of this trap represented
in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
[Page 106]
nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
ANOTHER BOX TRAP.
This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
illustration explains itself.
[Illustration]
The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
top, near the further end of the trap, and
[Page 107]
the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should
be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the
surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch
beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid
and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread,
and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every
purpose.
When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
purpose the previous variety is preferable.
THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.
[Illustration]
One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms
the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
[Page 108]
captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_.
_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this
would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed
to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer
very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch
in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten
inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished
with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be
a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.
At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side
next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should
be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width,
being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding
it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about
seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last,
to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same
side of the stick.
[Illustration]
When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost.
Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the
upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the
stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the
bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting
it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to
catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project
beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the
trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the
ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
touched when the stone falls.
[Page 109]
THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
[Illustration]
This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page
88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter
from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than
both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our
four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt
and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted
cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap
for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless
precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a
tempting bait when it is within his reach.
[Page 110]
THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
[Illustration]
It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
[Page 111]
efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
wire, twisted about each.
The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
a common occurrence.
THE DEAD-FALL.
In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
across his neck, put him to death.
[Illustration]
Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
setting from that usually employed.
[Page 112]
A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it
to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter
log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the
bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains
the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length,
answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and
the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when
set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side
down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another
straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be
cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of
wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now
proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end
of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top
of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should
now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed
end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the
illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done,
the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to
setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary.
It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of
the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on
the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring
the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat
stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that
the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method,
very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a
very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the
bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this
case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very
turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal
stick, and throws the parts asunder.
If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
[Page 113]
may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
[Page 114]
top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.
[Illustration]
The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
log being poised on its summit.
THE GARROTE.
There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
[Page 115]
This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
[Illustration]
Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
[Page 116]
at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
done, and the trap is set.
[Illustration]
Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
a bait stick.
THE BOW TRAP.
This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
[Illustration]
Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
[Page 117]
a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
[Page 118]
pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
[Page 119]
illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
spring.
In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
is made clear in our illustration (_b_).
By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
sensitive.
Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
THE MOLE TRAP.
If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
page 120.
Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
with a large auger is just the thing. Through
[Page 120]
the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
he may approach.
Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
success.
A FISH TRAP.
Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
and novel.
[Illustration]
Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
[Page 121]
should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
[Illustration: Maternal advice.]
[Page 123]
[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]
[Page 125]
BOOK V.
HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record
see our page title to this section. There are several others also
which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
for their especial benefit.
Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.
First on the list is
THE BARREL TRAP.
This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
death to its prisoners.
A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
[Page 126]
that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more
[Page 127]
are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.
[Illustration]
By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
to the spot, and many are thus captured.
We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
the premises of the vermin.
Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed
and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving
a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a
couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform.
The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above
mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a
stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of
the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with
gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as
already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the
foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action.
Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.
[Page 128]
Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted
for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare,
page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture
of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and
129.
The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
as before directed.
Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
be frequently changed.
THE BOX DEAD-FALL.
[Illustration]
This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
[Page 129]
consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should
project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted
in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed
to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the
top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled
from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its
upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a
crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity
of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The
weight (_d_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak
plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will
allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom
therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should
be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout
string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of
the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be
about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed
[Page 130]
at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches
above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen
in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and
attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which
should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught
against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted,
and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at
the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution
is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven,
one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement
of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight
on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it
to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on
the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight
with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim.
The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.
THE BOARD-FLAP.
[Illustration]
[Page 131]
For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_),
thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.
It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
tested before being finally set.
THE BOX PIT-FALL.
We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
[Page 132]
It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.
[Illustration]
The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be
only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_),
this being for the balance weight. The
[Page 133]
latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
fully explains itself.
[Illustration]
After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform
to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated
by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
the interior of the box may be lined with tin.
By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of
the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way,
two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats
are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in
the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this
case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the
box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the
one we have described.
[Page 134]
For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
this kind in a single night.
CAGE TRAP.
[Illustration]
The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be
well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and
labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise
their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our
pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples.
For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
[Page 135]
strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible,
as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent.
It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through
this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to
be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush
frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in thei
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